Nuovi migranti, nuovi ristoranti

di Marialuisa Stazio


As it is universally known, the gastronomy is the Italian ethnic business par excellence, all around the world. In this field – ‘traditional’ in the ‘old wave’ of Italian expatriates in Berlin – many among these newcomers are driving a notable innovation. In fact, in this traditional market niche, the new-fangled Italian enterprises are very often characterized by a special ‘atmosphere’, tied to the Italian lifestyle, and to the capability of using cultural, symbolic and social capital (Bourdieu, 1986), in order to arrange a setting that offers the right mix of tradition and modernity. Sometimes, the spaces are conceived also for cultural activities: movie, or live music, or exhibits. In these new Italian locations, the food is prepared in accordance with Italian culinary traditions, typically using high-quality, fresh and locally sourced ingredients. High attention is dedicated to discovery new wines and products, and to guarantee and maintain high standards and quality. Very often food and wines come predominantly from a precise geographic area. These innovative Italian gastronomy enterprises are starting even some marketing strategies. In the 2015 (November 30th-December 6th) was held the 1st edition of Eatalian Food Week Berlin. Eighteen Italian restaurants presented a special menu, to promote this new, ‘authentic’ Italian cuisine in Berlin. The event was organized by MADE Communications, Italian marketing communication agency. Now, in 2016, is starting, with a similar format, the 1st edition of True Italian.

In the new context of post-industrial ‘service society’ and in the new mobility of entrepreneurial activities, Italian entrepreneurs could offer their customers the plus of the ‘Italian style experience’. But, also, they are now crossing new paths and developing new strategies. In the online services (by which you can booking the restaurants, or buying ingredients for Italian recipes , or ordering Italian genuine food for delivery , etc.), Italians mix their ‘tacit knowledge’ in the complicated and sophisticated field of food, and their digital competences. The new horizon that seems unify the new Italian gastronomy in Berlin, is in promoting importation of ‘genuine’ PDO, PGI or TGS Italian food and wine, very often directly connecting to small and medium-sized producers of their countries. So are doing the restaurants, but also some little firms of distribution. For example, Koriandrum distributes olive oil, sausages, tomatoes, cheese and buffalo mozzarella, produced by small family farms, which exclusively rely on organic production techniques, near Fondi, in the Southern Latium. This attitude is led by the awareness of the competitive advantage that this direct exchange can assure in the crowded Berlin market. But indubitably it is turning into the creation of networks and exchanges between their countries of origin and that have hosted them (Gibson and McKenzie, 2011). Italians are changing also the panorama of street food supply. In Berlin there are two weekly street food markets: Markthalle Neun on the Thursday and Street Food auf Achse at the Kulturbrauerei on the Sunday. Sironi – Il pane di Milano and Eugenio Finzi – Salumeria del Sud are a permanent fixture in the first. Porchetta Fraktion , instead, is on Sunday at Mauerpark and Kulturbrauerei. Das Panzerotto goes around from Maybachufer to Mauerpark. Arancina Welt is sometime on Preussenalle; other time on Pestalozzistraße; and the Saturday in the Wochenmarkt of Karl-August-Platz. Gnam Gnam Panzerotti is on the corner of Friedrichstrasse and Torstrasse. The food truck of Lekkaroni Street Food Pasta is going around the city.




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